caa a22 4500 386312729 CHVBK 20180307111554.0 cr unu---uuuuu 161130e198801 xx s 000 0 eng 10.1017/S0010417500015024 doi S0010417500015024 pii (NATIONALLICENCE)cambridge-10.1017/S0010417500015024 Appadurai Arjun University of Pennsylvania How to Make a National Cuisine: Cookbooks in Contemporary India [Elektronische Daten] [Arjun Appadurai] Cookbooks, which usually belong to the humble literature of complex civilizations, tell unusual cultural tales. They combine the sturdy pragmatic virtues of all manuals with the vicarious pleasures of the literature of the senses. They reflect shifts in the boundaries of edibility, the proprieties of the culinary process, the logic of meals, the exigencies of the household budget, the vagaries of the market, and the structure of domestic ideologies. The existence of cookbooks presupposes not only some degree of literacy, but often an effort on the part of some variety of specialist to standardize the regime of the kitchen, to transmit culinary lore, and to publicize particular traditions guid- ing the journey of food from marketplace to kitchen to table. Insofar as cookbooks reflect the kind of technical and cultural elaboration we grace with the term cuisine, they are likely, as Jack Goody has recently argued, to be representations not only of structures of production and distribution and of social and cosmological schemes, but of class and hierarchy (1982). Their spread is an important sign of what Norbert Elias has called "the civilizing process” (1978). The increased interest of historians and anthropologists in cookbooks should therefore come as no surprise (Chang 1977; Cosman 1976; Khare 1976a, 1976b). Copyright © Society for the Comparative Study of Society and History 1988 Comparative Studies in Society and History Cambridge University Press 30/1(1988-01), 3-24 0010-4175 30:1<3 1988 30 CSS https://doi.org/10.1017/S0010417500015024 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI 1 research-article jats NATIONALLICENCE 856 40 https://doi.org/10.1017/S0010417500015024 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI NATIONALLICENCE 100 1- Appadurai Arjun University of Pennsylvania NATIONALLICENCE 773 0- Comparative Studies in Society and History Cambridge University Press 30/1(1988-01), 3-24 0010-4175 30:1<3 1988 30 CSS CC0 http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0 nationallicence SWISSBIB 224337238 BK010053 XK010053 XK010000 NATIONALLICENCE NATIONALLICENCE NL-cambridge