caa a22 4500 445301082 CHVBK 20180317142558.0 cr unu---uuuuu 170323e20100201xx s 000 0 eng 10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9 doi (NATIONALLICENCE)springer-10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9 Statistical distribution of nonlinear random wave height in shallow water [Elektronische Daten] [YiJun Hou, YongLiang Duan, GengXin Chen, Peng Qi, GuiTing Song, GuangCheng Si] Here we present a statistical model of random wave, using Stokes wave theory of water wave dynamics, as well as a new nonlinear probability distribution function of wave height in shallow water. It is more physically logical to use the wave steepness of shallow water and the factor of shallow water as the parameters in the wave height distribution. The results indicate that the two parameters not only could be parameters of the distribution function of wave height but also could reflect the degree of wave height distribution deviation from the Rayleigh distribution. The new wave height distribution overcomes the problem of Rayleigh distribution that the prediction of big wave is overestimated and the general wave is underestimated. The prediction of small probability wave height value of new distribution is also smaller than that of Rayleigh distribution. The effect of wave steepness in shallow water is similar to that in deep water; but the factor of shallow water lowers the wave height distribution of the general wave with the reduced factor of wave steepness. It also makes the wave height distribution of shallow water more centralized. The results indicate that the new distribution fits the in situ measurements much better than other distributions. Science in China Press and Springer Berlin Heidelberg, 2010 wave height distribution nationallicence nonlinearity nationallicence the wave steepness of shallow water nationallicence the factor of shallow water nationallicence Hou YiJun Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Duan YongLiang Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Chen GengXin Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Qi Peng Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Song GuiTing Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Si GuangCheng Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut Science China Earth Sciences SP Science in China Press 53/2(2010-02-01), 267-273 1674-7313 53:2<267 2010 53 11430 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI 1 research-article jats NATIONALLICENCE 856 40 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11430-009-0206-9 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Hou YiJun Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Duan YongLiang Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Chen GengXin Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Qi Peng Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Song GuiTing Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Si GuangCheng Institute of Oceanology, Chinese Academy of Sciences, 266071, Qingdao, China aut NATIONALLICENCE 773 0- Science China Earth Sciences SP Science in China Press 53/2(2010-02-01), 267-273 1674-7313 53:2<267 2010 53 11430 Metadata rights reserved Springer special CC-BY-NC licence nationallicence BK010053 XK010053 XK010000 NATIONALLICENCE NATIONALLICENCE NL-springer