caa a22 4500 445313439 CHVBK 20180317142638.0 cr unu---uuuuu 170323e20110401xx s 000 0 eng 10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0 doi (NATIONALLICENCE)springer-10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0 Ingredients Tracking of Cosmetic Formulations in the Skin: A Confocal Raman Microscopy Investigation [Elektronische Daten] [Matthias Förster, Marie-Alexandrine Bolzinger, Delphine Ach, Gilles Montagnac, Stephanie Briançon] ABSTRACT: Purpose: Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) was used to follow the absorption of retinol into the skin and to track the absorption of ingredients in topically applied formulations. Method: Three surfactants, PEG20C12, PEG20C18:1 (hydrophilic) and PEG6C18:1 (lipophilic), were used in preparing three o/w emulsions and three surfactant solutions all containing retinol. Quantitative retinol penetration studies for 24h were carried out using Franz diffusion cells. CRM was used to follow the skin penetration of retinol, oil and water and also to study a possible modification of the lipid skin barrier in the stratum corneum (SC) using the ratio of I2880/I2850. Results: The oily surfactant solution containing PEG6C18:1 and dodecane showed the highest retinol penetration rate. This appears to be related both to the short polar head group of the surfactant and to the effect of dodecane on skin lipids. All the surfactant solutions showed a higher penetration rate compared with the corresponding emulsions. CRM measurements showed that the ratios of I2880/I2850 were significantly modified using surfactant solutions. Conclusions: Penetration behavior appeared to be dependent on the surfactant used in the formulation. CRM associated to the Franz cell method gives new insights on permeation of drug related to vehicle or ingredients. Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, 2011 confocal Raman microspectroscopy nationallicence delivery nationallicence formulation ingredient tracking nationallicence retinol nationallicence skin nationallicence aq : aqueous nationallicence BHT : butylhydroxytoluene nationallicence Brij®98 : polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether nationallicence CRM : confocal Raman microscopy nationallicence D : dermis nationallicence E : epidermis nationallicence FWHM : full width half maximum nationallicence HLB : hydrophilic-lipophilic balance parameter nationallicence HPLC : high performance liquid chromatography nationallicence Myritol®318 : caprylic/capric triglyceride nationallicence PEG : polyethyleneglycol nationallicence POE : polyoxyethylene nationallicence R I2880/I2850 : ratio of the peak intensities at 2880 and 2850 cm−1 nationallicence Rpm : revolutions per minute nationallicence SC : stratum corneum nationallicence SD : standard deviation nationallicence SEM : standard error of the mean nationallicence Förster Matthias Gattefossé SAS, St Priest, France aut Bolzinger Marie-Alexandrine Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut Ach Delphine Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut Montagnac Gilles Université de Lyon, 69007 Lyon France; Université Lyon I, Laboratoire des Sciences de la Terre UMR 5570 CNRS, ENS de Lyon, France aut Briançon Stephanie Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut Pharmaceutical Research Springer US; http://www.springer-ny.com 28/4(2011-04-01), 858-872 0724-8741 28:4<858 2011 28 11095 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI 1 research-article jats NATIONALLICENCE 856 40 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11095-010-0342-0 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Förster Matthias Gattefossé SAS, St Priest, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Bolzinger Marie-Alexandrine Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Ach Delphine Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Montagnac Gilles Université de Lyon, 69007 Lyon France; Université Lyon I, Laboratoire des Sciences de la Terre UMR 5570 CNRS, ENS de Lyon, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Briançon Stephanie Université de Lyon, 69008 Lyon, France; Université Lyon I, Institut des Sciences Pharmaceutiques et Biologiques, Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, 69008 Lyon, France: Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des procédés (LAGEP) UMR CNRS 5007, 69622, Villeurbanne, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 773 0- Pharmaceutical Research Springer US; http://www.springer-ny.com 28/4(2011-04-01), 858-872 0724-8741 28:4<858 2011 28 11095 Metadata rights reserved Springer special CC-BY-NC licence nationallicence BK010053 XK010053 XK010000 NATIONALLICENCE NATIONALLICENCE NL-springer