caa a22 4500 445375965 CHVBK 20180317143002.0 cr unu---uuuuu 170323e20110501xx s 000 0 eng 10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y doi (NATIONALLICENCE)springer-10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y Bartlett Djurdja London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London, UK aut Moscow on the fashion map: between periphery and centre [Elektronische Daten] [Djurdja Bartlett] This essay considers Moscow's simultaneously peripheral and central position on the global fashion map. It is predicated on a study of imaginary Russian geographies presented in Vogue and other fashion media, advertisements and promotional activities by important fashion brands, as well as the promotional texts and visuals of several new Russian fashion designers. While these different players all contribute to shaping the imagery of Russian fashion today, their agendas and aesthetics differ. This essay identifies three main approaches within the field of the symbolic production of Russian fashion. Western fashion designers and fashion media mainly rely on Russian imperial sartorial heritage in their orientalizing approach to Russian fashion. Secondly, Russian Vogue perpetuates Moscow's peripheral international fashion position either by passively transmitting derivative Western representations of Russianness, or by reconstructing its own high-fashion versions of traditional Russian decorative style. Finally, several young Russian fashion designers deconstruct both traditional Russian and socialist iconography, in a fundamentally new development for the country's fashion scene. Springer Science+Business Media B.V., 2011 Auto-exoticism nationallicence Centre nationallicence Fashion designer nationallicence Fashion quotation nationallicence High-fashion ethnic nationallicence Orientalism nationallicence Periphery nationallicence Picturesque nationallicence Symbolic production of fashion nationallicence Vogue nationallicence Studies in East European Thought Springer Netherlands 63/2(2011-05-01), 111-121 0925-9392 63:2<111 2011 63 11212 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI 1 research-article jats NATIONALLICENCE 856 40 https://doi.org/10.1007/s11212-011-9138-y text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI NATIONALLICENCE 100 1- Bartlett Djurdja London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London, UK aut NATIONALLICENCE 773 0- Studies in East European Thought Springer Netherlands 63/2(2011-05-01), 111-121 0925-9392 63:2<111 2011 63 11212 Metadata rights reserved Springer special CC-BY-NC licence nationallicence BK010053 XK010053 XK010000 NATIONALLICENCE NATIONALLICENCE NL-springer