caa a22 4500 44586625X CHVBK 20180317145458.0 cr unu---uuuuu 170323e20110301xx s 000 0 eng 10.1140/epjd/e2010-00276-3 doi (NATIONALLICENCE)springer-10.1140/epjd/e2010-00276-3 Nonlinearity and nonequilibrium together in Nature: wind waves in the open ocean [Elektronische Daten] Wind-excited waves [Y. Pomeau, M. Le Berre] Abstract.: We derive scaling laws for the steady spectrum of wind excited waves, neglecting surface tension and taking air and water as inviscid, an approximation valid at large wind speed. Independently of the wind speed, there exists an unique (small) dimensionless parameter ϵ, the ratio of the mass densities of the two fluids (air and water). The smallness of ϵ allows to derive some important average properties of the wave system. The average square slope of the waves is, as observed, a small but not very small quantity, because it is of order |ln(ϵ 2)|-1. This supports the often used assumption of small nonlinearity in the wave-wave interaction. We introduce an equation to be satisfied by the two-point correlation of the height fluctuations. Lastly we reconsider the formation of swell, that is the relationship between the randomness of waves and the observation of quasi monochromatic water waves. EDP Sciences, SIF, Springer-Verlag Berlin Heidelberg, 2010 Pomeau Y. Department of Mathematics, University of Arizona, Tucson, USA aut Le Berre M. Institut des Sciences Moléculaires d'Orsay ISMO-CNRS, Université Paris-Sud, Bt. 210, 91405, Orsay Cedex, France aut The European Physical Journal D Springer-Verlag 62/1(2011-03-01), 73-80 1434-6060 62:1<73 2011 62 10053 https://doi.org/10.1140/epjd/e2010-00276-3 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI 1 research-article jats NATIONALLICENCE 856 40 https://doi.org/10.1140/epjd/e2010-00276-3 text/html Onlinezugriff via DOI NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Pomeau Y. Department of Mathematics, University of Arizona, Tucson, USA aut NATIONALLICENCE 700 1- Le Berre M. Institut des Sciences Moléculaires d'Orsay ISMO-CNRS, Université Paris-Sud, Bt. 210, 91405, Orsay Cedex, France aut NATIONALLICENCE 773 0- The European Physical Journal D Springer-Verlag 62/1(2011-03-01), 73-80 1434-6060 62:1<73 2011 62 10053 Metadata rights reserved Springer special CC-BY-NC licence nationallicence BK010053 XK010053 XK010000 NATIONALLICENCE NATIONALLICENCE NL-springer